Gibraltar: Solid as a Rock

The Rock of Gibraltar is a 1400 ft high giant slab of jagged Jurassic limestone formed around 200 million years ago, and dominates a unique geographical position connecting the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. Gibraltar itself is a land mass of some three miles in length, and one mile wide, overlooking the twenty-mile stretch of water known as the Straits which divides the two continents of Europe and Africa. The separating line between Gibraltar and Spain is a half-mile wide isthmus, which doubles as an international airport runway, along with the local traffic and pedestrians. It must be one of the few places, if not the only place, in the world where you get off the plane and walk across the runway you have just landed on to get to your destination. Gibraltar is a thriving business centre, with its own stable government and tax advantages; the local currency is Gibraltar Government sterling notes, and British sterling is welcome. There is a full range of inter¬national and UK banks, and it is a highly competitive finance centre employing over 5,000 people. Natural history For centuries this commanding strategic location was mainly ignored with its barren inhospitable rock face, and forest-covered slopes; it was of no real interest to the Phoenicians, Romans or the Greeks, although the latter did weave it into their mythology along with Jebel Musa (a mountain at Ceuta) to comprise the fabled “Pillars of Hercules”. Gibraltar remained uninhabited for centuries although it is thought that Neanderthal man lived in the caves, and shared the Rock with the abundant wildlife attracted by the plentiful water supply from the porous limestone, which maintained a lush green environment in contrast to the surrounding land in the Iberian Peninsula. The Rock would have been home to wild boar, wolves and red deer, but these have long since disappeared and a colony of semi-wild tailless Barbary apes now inhabit the upper reaches, having made their home amongst the eucalyptus, carob and wild olive trees. Nobody quite knows where the apes came from, although it is believed that they were first introduced by the British during the eighteenth century, possibly as pets, or even game. Another tale is that they made their way through a subterranean passage linking Africa to Gibraltar, although not surprisingly such a passage has never been found. These Macaque monkeys form an integral part of the history of the Rock and it is said that when the apes go, so will the British. In the Second World War when Winston Churchill found out that there were only seven apes remaining, he immediately sent instructions to bring in another few families to replenish the numbers ensure their continued existence. There are now around 230 thriving apes in the colony, and they are monitored closely, named, microchipped and take part in an annual census. Over 200 species of birds have been recorded and, as the Straits of Gibraltar are the narrowest crossing point for migration to and from Europe to Africa, the number and species of birds has remained relatively unchanged over time. Thousands of black kites and honey buzzards make the journey; eagles, hawks and falcons, and smaller migrants such as swallows, finches and martins can be seen on passage. The vegetation on the Rock is unique and provides a temporary home for these occasional visitors and, with the necessity to gain large deposits of fat before embarking on their long journeys north or south, the Rock provides all they need. Griffon vultures and storks have colonies nearby, while the Barbary Partridge, native to North Africa, has taken up permanent residency on the Rock. The sea, too, provides a rich and varied population and the Straits are home to three species of dolphin: common, striped and bottlenose. By far the most prolific is the Common Dolphin, and if you are sailing through you will almost be guaranteed a welcome. Sperm, Pilot, Orca and Fin whales can also be sighted while using the route to migrate to and from the Med and the Atlantic. The Straits also provide a good fishing ground with over fourteen species of bream. Through the centuries Apart from the Greeks, Phoenicians, Visigoths and Romans all passed this way. The Muslim invasion of Europe started across the Straits of Gibraltar when the Berber chief Tarik Ibn Zeyad invaded Tarifa. He later moved on to take Mons Calpe (Gibraltar’s original name) which he promptly renamed Jebel Tarik – the rock of Tarik. It is from Jebel Tarik that Gibraltar gets its name. Gibraltar remained under Moorish domination for seven centuries. It did not come under Spanish rule until the early fourteenth century and then for just 24 years. Then in 1462 the Spaniards finally recaptured the Rock and held it until the beginning of the eighteenth century, when it fell to a combined Anglo-Dutch force. The treaty of Utrecht ceded the Rock into the “Crown of Great Britain” in perpetuity, but Gibraltar has continued to be in conflict with Spain about this land to this day. In 1782 work began on the famous siege tunnels – primarily excavated as a defence to allow the mounting of a prototype gun, which was the first to be able to fire downwards. A further labyrinth of passageways was tunnelled from one side of the rock to the other, and this massive excavation continued into the Second World War; the network now measures around 48 kilometres, and has been open to the public since 2005. A centre of maritime excellence Unsurprisingly Gibraltar has developed a strong marine connection, attracting sailors for centuries, with ancient mariners arriving as early as the eighth century BC. According to legend they left gifts to the gods before embarking into the unknown – the Greeks believed that anyone passing out of the Mediterranean, beyond Hercules’ comforting markers, did so at his peril, and would undoubtedly fall off the end of the Earth. The Phoenicians named the Rock “Calpe” translated as “ship” or vessel. The Battle of Trafalgar was fought off the Cádiz coast in 1805. It was into Gibraltar’s harbour that HMS Victory sailed with the body of Admiral Nelson stored in a barrel of rum. Those who survived the battle but who later died of their wounds, were buried in the Trafalgar Cemetery in Gibraltar. During the nineteenth century Gibraltar enjoyed its heyday as a port and was a staging point on the vital route to India. In addition the strategic location of Gibraltar explains why, for centuries, the Rock has been used as a naval fortress and why so many battles have been fought over this tiny peninsula at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea. Today, this same quirk of geography has allowed Gibraltar to become a maritime centre of excellence. Located at a crossroads of Mediterranean and Atlantic shipping lanes, Gibraltar is ideally placed to provide a wide range of services to vessels of all sizes and types. The development of Gibraltar as a naval port was prompted in part by Lord Nelson whose Victory was one of several warships repaired at the naval dockyard. The construction of dry docks took place between 1891 and 1906 and the naval dockyard continued to be operated by the British Government until 1985 when it became a private concern. Gibraltar is a bustling commercial centre. With over 90,000 vessels transiting the Strait of Gibraltar each year, and being ideally located close to the main shipping lanes, it offers minimum deviation for commercial vessels and anchoring in the bay can mean that ships do not even have to leave the sanctuary of international waters to carry out necessary routine services. It has an ideal year round climate for shipyard work, and large capacity dry docks including a covered area for superyachts. The Rock has become a major bunkering station – the largest in the Mediterranean – and offers a wide range of other shipping services. The local airport is just a few minutes from the harbour, from where there are several daily flights to London Gatwick, Luton and Madrid, and experienced agents are on hand to obtain spare parts, supply provisions and effect crew changes. Safety and environmental concerns are given top priority by the Government, which applies strict regulations. Not only does Gibraltar have a full service for the commercial shipping industry but it has dedicated services for the pleasure boat owner, whether a superyacht captain or cruising yachtsman. It is a convenient stopoff point for all servicing and support requirements with a range of services being offered such as dry docking, engineering and ship repairs, waste oil and garbage removal, servicing and repair of navigational equipment, freight forwarding, Customs and Immigration clearance. Yacht Registration The Gibraltar Ship Register is the ideal choice for the prudent ship owner who wants the reassurance of belonging to a British Register and flying the Red Ensign without incurring high costs. The Gibraltar Maritime Administration runs it, and its straightforward simple procedure applies to four categories of registration: full, bareboat, provisional or vessel under construction. In recent years Gibraltar has extended the range of persons or companies allowed to register a vessel, full details of which can be obtained from the Gibraltar Maritime Administration. Private pleasure vessels under 24 metres in length may also be registered with the Gibraltar Ship Register, whether used commercially or not, and for those over 24 metres and with non-commercial use. Gibraltar’s unique British style and perfect location have made Gibraltar a popular haven for yachts and leisure craft. As a natural stopoff point between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, it serves as a provisioning stop for yachts embarking on an Atlantic crossing - an added attraction being its duty free status for liquor and fuel, excellent selection and availability of quality dry goods and those familiar items essential for transatlantic passages. In addition to visiting yachts it has attracted many permanent berth holders with two main marinas situated within major waterfront developments. Marinas Marina Bay is the closest marina to the airport and, in a well-sheltered location to the west side of the rock, it offers a private development with over 200 berths, with a maximum length of 75 metres and full pontoon facilities. It is currently undergoing a complete refit, which is being supported by the surrounding development. It was acquired by Ocean Village Investments Ltd in 2006, which has embarked on a major improvement project. On the residential side, Taylor Woodrow has recently completed Phase One of their latest high quality luxury development Tradewinds in Ocean Village Marina which comprises 81 apartments, with five retail units on the marina front walkway. This futuristic three-tower development designed by London-based architects MSMR has transformed the Marina. Phase Two is well on the way to completion, expected by the end of the summer, together with the communal swimming pool. Nearby, Sheppard’s (part of the nautical establishment in Gibraltar) has provided reliable chandlery and yacht repair services for nearly fifty years, and is in the process of developing new facilities close to the recently opened Queensway Quay Marina, including a haul-out facility for craft of up to seventeen metres. It offers a range of services including anti-foul removal, slurry blasting, anode replacement and osmosis treatment. Queensway Quay Marina is to the south of the Rock, and a new solid breakwater was constructed in 2005, known as The Island. The development is also the site for nineteen luxury houses with 20m berths attached. The Island gives total protection for all yachts, removing any swell from the marina. The entrance is situated at the north-west corner, and gives access to 200 fully serviced berths that can accommodate up to twelve 30m and two 40m boats, and one 75m berth dependent on draft. The marina development has an interesting mix of nautical history and modern architecture – canons strategically placed on the dock, next to the archetypal British lamp posts are a reminder of where you are. Knowledgeable and helpful staff man the marina office and smart and inviting restaurants are an impressive backdrop, providing all that is necessary while drifting ashore without having to go into the hustle and bustle of Main Street. Not only does the marina provide for the arrivals and departures of transatlantic yachts, it also offers a long-term berthing option. It is publicised as one of the perfectly safe places to leave your yacht for long periods without any worries, unlike harbours along the south coast of Spain which are often the hub of nightlife during the high season. For more information on Gibraltar go to the Visit Gibraltar website. For information about charters in the area, visit Yachtworldcharters.com's Gibraltar page. Editor's Note: This story originally appeared in the June 2008 issue of Yachtworld.com Magazine. View current issue